Indogtrination

I'm starting to hate these kinds of jokes,,,

mouth to mouth bacon

"How, I am not quite sure, but 'different', as the animal with the touch of human hands about him when he returns to the herd" --Sylvia Plath

The Dangers of Transient Friends

It's about time to leave Squamish. It's hard to leave, and most of me doesn't want to. But the rain might be coming, and I want to go before I have to, so as to feel some fire to return.

What follows is something of a photo recap accented by little bits of thoughts that were slow enough to catch.

Selena on what is perhaps the best V2 in Squamish

Topher Sinatra looking relaxed on Frontside (V12)

Most nights here have that half-drunk feeling of deep-set fatigue, the kind that cradles you when you close your eyes.

Drifting away from Pemberton

Working out beta is like planting seeds in the holds and waiting for rain. Someday something might take root. The most efficient way to do a move neither declares, nor does it hide, rather it sets forth clues. But sometimes boulders are just done with bad beta and the group follows blindly- much like Pine Processionaries straddling a thread. This is both the struggle and the draw.

Paul and Terry skipping first base

"this is called being a professional"

Reckoning Stand (V10) (credit: Selena Wong)

For months, I huddled pathetically on some sunwarmed rock, and hoped that fall was just around the corner. Yesterday I was the vanguard, at the cutting edge of the season. I set out to climb and instead caught Fall. I have become sensitive to the changing seasons, and long wanted to be on the spot for the revolution, and raise a flag pole in the grass saying "here" and "now". 

Happiness is the most friends (credit: Selena Wong)

Unrealistic expectations with the Sea to Sky Sirens (credit: Selena Wong)

The edges of the days

This blog post heavily relied on this woman: Annie Dillard.

Best Day Yet: Everything is beautiful and nothing hurts

Days with Charlie the deaf dog:

Rest days spent in showers, near laundry, changing operating systems. It's roller derby recovery day, shins more sore than ever. Not chin hits like on top outs, but like shin hits on slabs. Supportive grrls everywhere, laughing at boulders, drooling on top out holds, ass rockets on roller skates and slam poems on repeat. Things are looking up in my little world.

It's a cold sun day. Began with Reckoning(V10) recon, then to Sir Le Twat (V12). Ended the day with some El Camino Madness (V8). Gibson on the stereo, and I'm spending the day trying to channel what ever it is she channels. First world genesis, can't stop thinking about those roaring kodiak bears we all live upon, it's the salmon coloured sunsets, you know.

Paul Nadler on Sir Le Twat (V12)

Working Frontside (V12) [thanks Collin]

Home

Collin's Kitchen

grrrrls

I climb boulder problems with weird names so I will sound deep when I blog about them.

Rest day dilemmas

As a general rule, I'm pretty into bouldering, but some days a body just needs a rest. So a rest day it is, and everything that includes. When Collin was here we were climbing every other day, one on, one off, so rest days were spent support each other in the forest. But now that he has returned to Colorado I'm reduced to entertaining myself.

Today, I have spent no time doing anything physical. I've sat in two different chairs, one couch, and many different spots outside, trying to poach internet. Terry put it pretty well this morning: sometimes it's nice to have four walls and a seat back, no matter how good the climbing is. Fact is, I feel pretty good physically, but I am bored out of my mind. 

It's so appealing to head into the forest and circuit on easy slabs, but given the amount of J-Tree climbing Salve I have applied today (both to my fingers and to my keyboard) I don't think it's a great idea to climb at all.

So, rest days include what? Lots of tumblr, sizeable amounts of facebook, more youtube than I care to mention, and a cursory attempt at self promotion. Seriously, I even updated my instagram. 

Enough of that.

This week in Squamish:
-Day flash of Black Slabbath(V7) by Chris Sinatra
-Impressive last-go-best-go effort on the same by Paul Nadler
-Amazing blackberry pie at the Savage-Hunter household
-Lizzy Asher killing it on everything all the time
-Sore abs and fatigued facial muscles from a mean laughing/smiling exercise routine
-My own 'and-you've-climbed-how-hard?' 'scents of Sesame Street(v9), Ramen Raw(v7), ATD(v7) and the Fuzz(v7)
-More 'and-you've-climbed-how-hard?' punts and failures on No Troublems(v9/10), Mr. Bigglesworth(v10), Big Chicken(v9/10), and a slew of others
-Fine weather, no rain, and few complaints about conditions


In summation:
"You invent nothing, you think you are inventing, you think you are escaping, and all you do is stammer out your lesson." -Samuel Beckett, Molloy

Listling: Top Ten

Ten things I look forward to blogging about:

1) Pros and cons of top ten lists

2) Reviews of classic boulder problems

3) Reviews of not so classic boulder problems

4) Assessment of the relevancy of Facebook status updates

5) Aches, pains and tweaks: a guide

6) Top ten 'Top Ten' lists

7) "Air-quotes"

8) Review of specific bouldering grades

9) [undecided]

10) Pros and cons of blogging

To conclude:

"Lines slip easily down the accustomed grooves. The old designs are copied so glibly that we are half inclined to think them original, save for that very glibness."

-Virginia Woolf, Letter to a Young Poet

Squamish: A return to the forest

I'm in Squamish, and enjoying the forest, processing movement over granite again. It's fun. Fun, definitely the right word for it.

I left Thursday, August 16th from Denver, Colorado. Would have left earlier, but was convinced to spot Rylan Marshall on Phobos (V11, Lincoln Lake). He sent, making the day worth it.

Picked up a hitchhiker in Wyoming. Sav. She was on the way to help a friend birth a child. We talked about this. Together, we drove to Livingston, Montana. I dropped her off in a trailer park, and continued on to the parking lot of a Comfort Inn.

Next day: Seattle, Washington. Stopped in a great used bookstore in Albertson, Montana on the way. It was advertised on the side of the highway, and completely worth a stop. Seemed abandoned, almost. Arrived in Seattle around 9 pm. Slept at Mercedes & Brenda's apartment. Their couch was wonderful, highly recommended. Went to Gold Bar the following afternoon, climbed on the Camp Serene and Beach boulders. Amazing. I found myself stuck on top of a boulder, for the first (and I hope last) time. Contemplated jumping into the river, onto a crashpad. Ended up sliding off, which was good, because Merc's camera stopped working. It's important to document these things.

Freshly psyched from the Gold Bar experience (very much looking forward to returning), Merc, Brenda and I left early to get a full day of bouldering in the Squamish forest. This is my third time in Squamish, and there are a few boulders I can't help but feel giddy when I try. It's great to be back and running laps on Summer Vacation (V0) and Cheese Grater (V1).

Collin Horvat  arrived that night. We spent the next day running around the forest, seeking out (and in his case, sending) top 100 boulder problems. Collin made quick work of Summer Vacation, Skin Graft (V4), Double Decker (V3), The Viper (V5), Left Rib (V2), Hoop Wrangler (V5), Be On Four (V7, flash), No Troublems (V10), Worm World Cave (V9), Trad Killer (V4) and Heartbreak Hotel (V2). I either sent or repeated about a third of these. Suffice it to say that Collin had a good day.

August 21st, day 2 in the forest: Collin and I were feeling a little beater after the previous day, but I wanted to do some crimping after all the slabs and slopers. Collin (selflessly, as it is involved) spotted me on Frontside. After some doing, I managed to basically do all the moves but the crux, a long cross off of a bad right hand sloping pinch. The fall from this move proves that the name is apt.

In conclusion:

Vladimir: That passed the time.
Estragon: It would have passed in any case.
Vladimir: Yes, but not so rapidly.

-Samuel Beckett, Waiting for Godot